When you arrive in Akureyri, you may feel surprised. Iceland’s north is rugged, remote, and often harsh, yet here is a town alive with color and charm. Red-roofed houses climb the hillsides. The fjord below reflects snow-capped peaks. Church towers rise over gardens filled with flowers that bloom despite the Arctic climate. Akureyri feels improbable, almost miraculous — a place of warmth at the edge of cold.
And yet this is only the beginning. From here we set out toward Lake Mývatn, a landscape shaped by fire, where geothermal energy boils beneath the surface, where lava fields stretch in eerie shapes, and where water and volcanic rock combine to create one of the most unique ecosystems on earth.
Akureyri: The Northern Capital
Akureyri has long been the heart of northern Iceland. Settled in the 9th century, it grew into a trading post, then a fishing town, and now a cultural hub. With fewer than 20,000 residents, it is hardly a city by global standards, but in Iceland it feels like a capital. Its harbor connects it to the sea, its university draws students from across the north, and its botanical gardens showcase plants from every continent that somehow thrive here, just below the Arctic Circle.
The town embodies Iceland’s resilience. Winters here are long and dark, yet Akureyri cultivates beauty. Summers are brief but radiant, filled with festivals, music, and gardens in bloom. Walking its streets, you sense a community that embraces both challenge and joy.
Goðafoss: The Waterfall of the Gods
On the road from Akureyri to Lake Mývatn stands Goðafoss, the “Waterfall of the Gods.” Its name recalls a pivotal moment in Iceland’s history. Around the year 1000, when Iceland formally converted to Christianity, the lawspeaker Þorgeir Ljósvetningagoði is said to have thrown his idols of the old Norse gods into this waterfall, symbolizing the nation’s new faith.
The story may mix fact with legend, but the symbolism is powerful. The waterfall, 12 meters high and 30 meters wide, pours in a crescent arc, its spray filling the air. To stand before it is to feel the weight of both water and history. Iceland shifted from the sagas of Odin and Thor to the Gospel of Christ, and the river carried the old gods away.
Goðafoss is a reminder that landscapes can hold memory, that a waterfall can become not only a marvel of geology but also a monument of identity.
Lake Mývatn: Land of Fire and Water
Lake Mývatn itself is unlike any other place in the world. Formed by a volcanic eruption 2,300 years ago, it is shallow but broad, dotted with islands and surrounded by lava fields. The name means “Midge Lake,” a reference to the swarms of tiny flies that thrive here in summer. For visitors, the insects may be a nuisance, but they are also the foundation of a remarkable ecosystem. Birds flock to Mývatn in extraordinary numbers, making it one of the best places in Europe for birdwatching.
Here, life flourishes in a place where the earth itself seems unstable. Geothermal vents release steam. Craters dot the landscape. Strange rock formations rise from the water like sculptures. It feels like both a place of beginning and a place of ending, as if creation is still in process.
Dimmuborgir: The Dark Castles
One of the most striking features near the lake is Dimmuborgir, a vast lava field filled with bizarre formations. The name means “Dark Castles,” and it is easy to see why. Towers, arches, and caves rise from the earth, as if ruins of some ancient fortress. The formations were created when lava flowed over a wetland, cooling into twisted shapes as steam escaped.
Folklore adds another layer. Dimmuborgir is said to be the home of trolls, including Grýla, a fearsome giantess who devoured naughty children, and her mischievous sons, the Yule Lads, who have become Iceland’s version of Christmas tricksters. In modern times, Dimmuborgir has been used as a setting for films and television, including Game of Thrones, but for Icelanders it has always been a place where geology and myth converge.
Walking among these lava formations, you feel as if you have stepped into another world — one where stone remembers fire and where stories cling to every rock.
Hverir: The Earth Breathing
Further east, near Mývatn, lies Hverir, a geothermal field where the earth itself seems alive. Mud pots bubble, fumaroles hiss, and the air is thick with the smell of sulfur. The ground is stained in colors of orange, yellow, and red, minerals brought to the surface by steam and boiling water.
This is not a hospitable place. The ground is hot, the air pungent, the atmosphere almost alien. Yet it is mesmerizing. Here you see the raw energy that created Iceland, the constant reminder that the island is a young land, still forming, still shifting. To walk among the fumaroles is to realize how thin the boundary is between surface and fire.
The Balance of Fire and Life
What makes Lake Mývatn remarkable is not only its volcanic drama but its fertility. Despite the geothermal activity, or perhaps because of it, the area supports life in abundance. Fertile soils grow hayfields and gardens. The lake itself supports fish, insects, and birds. Humans have lived here for centuries, learning to adapt to both the gifts and dangers of the land.
This balance of fire and life is the essence of Iceland. The island exists because of volcanoes, yet it is habitable because of the richness they bring. Geothermal heat warms homes and greenhouses. Volcanic soil nourishes crops. Lava formations draw visitors who sustain local economies. Icelanders have learned not to resist the fire but to live with it, turning hazard into heritage.
The Meaning of the North
A day at Lake Mývatn is not simply about seeing craters, lava fields, and waterfalls. It is about encountering the deep truth of Iceland: that beauty and danger are inseparable, that creation is not finished, that the land itself is alive.
Standing at Goðafoss, you remember how belief shifts like water. Walking in Dimmuborgir, you feel myth and geology entwined. Breathing the sulfur at Hverir, you sense the earth’s pulse beneath your feet. Watching birds wheel over the lake, you see life flourishing against all odds.
This is the lesson of Iceland’s north: life is never simple, but it is always possible.
Reflection
Traveling to Mývatn invites us to reflect on our own landscapes — the fiery and the fertile within us. Where do we feel instability, and where do we find abundance? How do we live with both?
The question this day asks is: Can we see our own challenges not only as threats, but also as the very forces that shape resilience and growth?
Spread Light & Goodness! Learn Deeply. Live Meaningfully.
Taylor Halverson, Ph.D.
Come and See
From the volcanic landscapes and waterfalls of Iceland, to the dramatic fjords of Norway, from the castles and lochs of Scotland to the cathedrals and coastlines of England—this voyage brings together the very best of Northern Europe.
Join Dr. Taylor Halverson and Exodus Tours in July 2026 for a cruise filled with history, culture, and discovery. You’ll explore Viking heritage, medieval strongholds, vibrant cities, and stunning natural wonders, all while traveling in comfort with expert insight to guide the journey.
This is more than a cruise; it is an immersion into the stories, places, and traditions that have shaped nations and inspired travelers for centuries.
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